In her show this year, she put Russian transgender model Nika Kraush on the runway (“I perceive her solely as a girl who perfectly presented a part of the new collection”). Another male model wore a skirt over his jeans (“It suited him incredibly, and he felt absolutely comfortable”).
Nika Kraush in Red September
Twenty-five-year-old designer Ekaterina Voronina, launched her namesake label, which is her first and last name in reverse, in 2016 with a menswear-focused collection, but her latest collection, “Molly’s Tale,” focuses on the blurring of traditionally accepted genders, including the fit of women’s clothing on the male body. “[The] waist, sternum, and hands are underlined by voluminous silhouettes, and ... men's suit woolen fabrics [are combined] with airy tulle, complemented by an unexpected combination of a women's corset over a classic men's jacket,” she explains.
It was when Ekaterina attended Polimoda, a private fashion school in Florence, that she was exposed to the idea that people should be free to wear whatever they want. Still, when asked if she thought that genderless clothing might encourage more people in Russia to see queerness more positively, Ekaterina stated, “I don’t think so. Maybe it could inspire, but not as much as LGBTQ community would like to see it happening.”
“We have oppression even inside [the LGBTQ+] ‘community’,” Nikita Kalmykov, the designer of Moscow’s genderless fashion brand Atelier Odor tells Teen Vogue. “For example I was harassed by a gay guy with whom I once had a date. He sent my nudes and private videos to anyone who could somehow ruin my career.”
The 27-year-old designer, who didn’t show this season due to limited resources, says he was harassed by a Russian gay man with whom he had gone on a single date. Nikita believes that due to this, businesses across Russia refused to order and carry his clothes in their stores. As an openly bisexual man in a highly conservative country, the designer makes a point to makes a point to create clothes for all people, and not distinguish his designs by gender. “It’s like a mirror of our inner freedom and personality,” he says. “So I’m doing fashion for a ‘person’, and try to reflect my own vision of fashion and art in clothes without any prejudices.”
Nikita, who prefers to wear skirts and long dresses, hasn’t found much of an LGBTQ+ community in Russia, from growing up getting made fun of for the way he dressed until now. “Everyone lives for themselves,” he says. He thinks that’s because of fear of retaliation, and as a result most are not willing to try to change people’s mindsets. And, due to the strictness of the current government, he doesn’t think things will drastically change for queer people anytime soon, because the mainstream culture is still incredibly homophobic.
These strict views could be due to what Russian fashion stylist Vasilisa Gusarova described as the super masculine representation of power by Russian political leaders. According to Vasilisa, “Aggressive anti-LGBTQ moods are still very common … [and] it is still risky to be queer here.” She says there are no outward gay-friendly or even unisex stores in Moscow and in the rest of the country.
On the last night of Russia Fashion Week, a massive crowd flocked to the runway show of 22-year-old rising star Roma Uvarov, who makes his clothing for everyone across the gender spectrum because he believes there should be no separation. Sending models of all varieties down the runway wearing turtleneck cable knit sweaters with ruffled collars and sleeves, see-through blouses printed with black-and-white images of Russian families, and even a puffer coat filled with dry pasta, Roma drew inspiration from retro Soviet kitchens, where people gathered and ate traditional foods together.
https://www.teenvogue.com/story/gender-neutral-clothing-russia-fashion-week
2019-04-19 14:33:39Z
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