Fashion Komel

Minggu, 30 Juni 2019

Fashion trend in Europe: Yankees baseball caps - Sportspress Northwest

Ex-Mariner Raul Ibanez sports the famous Yankees logo. / Wiki Commons

LONDON – The Yankees and Red Sox are playing the first regular-season major league baseball games in Europe this weekend. Something is happening here that the players are noticing in the city.

“I was walking near the London Eye and I ran into a couple people who had the Yankees hats on and they had no idea who I was or anything about that,’’ New York outfielder Aaron Judge said. “But it’s great. The Yankee logo is pretty recognizable and worldwide famous.’’

Indeed it is. The Yankees cap is worn in Europe by many more than one might think. The majority of wearers are not American tourists but natives of the continent. Baseball has a little growth going on – Twins outfielder Max Kepler is from Berlin, where his parents were ballet dancers – and several countries are hoping to compete in the sport at the 2020 Olympics.

Still, as Judge said, there’s not much familiarity with baseball or the Yankees. An English girl, Lily Leary, at the Yankees-Red Sox practice game, was wearing a Yankees cap but said she didn’t know who they were before now.

Several in Paris told me they just liked the logo.

“I don’t support the Yankees but it is my baseball team cap,’’ one man said. “This baseball cap is very popular. A new trade in France provides this cap. And a lot of people in France get the cap. It’s a fashion to wear this cap. Two other men told me they had no interest in baseball nor the Yankees but they still like the cap and its logo.

“It represents New York and I think that’s very much it,’’ one said.

Movie director Spike Lee was at the Yankees practice Friday afternoon and wore a Yankees cap. He’s obviouslya fan, but says he has been in Europe many times and seen a lot of NY caps.

“Everybody in the world is wearing Yankees caps,’’ Lee said. “It’s global. They don’t even know who the Yankees are or what baseball is, but they’re rocking and interlocking the NY. Jay-Z had a lot to do with that, too.’’

Yankees pitcher (and former Mariner) James Paxton agreed: “I think it’s like a fashion thing for a lot of people. I think it’s made its way into fashion.’’

Two English brothers who are actual Yankees fans at Friday’s practice agreed that many of those wearing the caps were doing so for fashion.

“The logo is fashionable more than any other team in any sport anywhere in the world,’’ Meera Shah said. “… Also, it’s because it’s New York. A lot of people will go to New York and come back with a t-shirt and they won’t know what they’re wearing.’’

“Baseball is known for its caps,’’ his brother, AJ Shaw. “You don’t see football players wearing the cap while they play.’’

Sometimes the caps are somewhat different from a real Yankees one despite the traditional NY logo. Sometimes the NY logo is larger than on a Yankees cap. Sometimes it is much smaller and tucked into the lower left corner just above the bill. And sometimes the caps are different colors – red, blue, orange, white or camouflage. There have been a variety of styles for sale in the great French outdoor markets as well.

Not that Yankees are the only baseball caps worn in Europe. The second most seen usually are Los Angeles Dodgers caps and then Boston and Atlanta Braves. I also saw a few Washington Nationals caps but never a Seattle Mariners cap.

“I saw two baseball caps, one of each,’’ former Yankees manager Joe Torre said Friday. “The first one I saw was a Red Sox cap, and then the Yankees cap. But I’ve only been in London for about 24 hours. It’s a great rivalry.’’

And as Lee said, the Yankees caps aren’t just worn in Europe, as New York pitcher C.C. Sabathia is well aware.

“I’ve been here a lot and I am aware of it,’’ Sabathia said. “I just think it’s the New York logo, the NY. I went to Africa in the off-season and I saw a bunch of people wearing Yankees caps. It’s just cool to see.’’

Hopefully these Yankees-Red Sox games here will get more Europeans to not only wear the NY caps but also know who the team is, and like baseball as well.

“There is a huge market here for MLB merchandise,’’ said John Boyd, the chief executive of Baseball Softball UK. “And some of that it isn’t necessarily related to the narrative of the game. That’s what we’re trying to do here. We’re trying to connect the fan base with the British public.’’

Someday perhaps they will wear Mariners caps, too.

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http://sportspressnw.com/2243564/2019/fashion-trend-in-europe-yankees-baseball-caps

2019-06-30 13:31:42Z
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Field fashion: what makes a classic Glastonbury outfit? - The Guardian

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Field fashion: what makes a classic Glastonbury outfit? The Guardian

Practicality is important when it comes to dressing for a festival – especially in searing heat – but that doesn't mean style has to go out the window.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jun/30/field-fashion-what-makes-a-classic-glastonbury-outfit

2019-06-30 12:08:00Z
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Cleaning Up Fashion - As The UK Rejects Pollution Levy A Startup Calls For Industry Leadership - Forbes

Ethical Apparel Africa is one of the companies on the Common Objective Platform

Source - Common Objective

The fashion industry. It’s glamorous, creative and contributes immeasurably to the sum total of human happiness.

Equally, however, it is an industry that is - in its current form - unsustainable. Here’s the case for the prosecution. As identified in a recent U.K. Government report - Fixing Fashion - textile production is having a bigger impact on climate change than the aviation and shipping industries combined. And according to a World Bank study, the industry devours around 79 billion cubic meters of water per year at a time when a changing climate and rising human populations are putting increasing pressure on supplies. Added to that, micro-fibers from clothing are finding their way into the food chain.

So viewed through another lens, the fashion industry is dirty, profligate and contributes immeasurably to the sum total of human misery.

Is it possible to square that particular circle? At a time when fast fashion - typified by cheap clothing that is purchased, worn only a few times and then thrown away - is one of the rising trends, can the fashion industry do anything at all to clean up its act and adopt more sustainable businesses practices? Well, probably not without regulation or a measurable commitment to change on the part of brands and producers.

Last week, those who hoped for a tougher regulatory environment in the U.K. were disappointed when the Government rejected a recommendation for a one pence levy on all garments sold to pay for better environmental protections.

In the same week, however, a UK-based startup company backed with £1.1 million in investor cash will call on industry leaders to sign up to a common set of sustainability values.

From Not For Profit To Commercial Venture

Slightly cheeky for a company launched last year, you might think, but the startup in question - Common Objective - has had an interesting journey. Founded by CEO, Tasmin Lejeune and chairman, Harold Tillman, the company styles itself as an “intelligent network” that brings together brands with suppliers. And at the heart of the venture is a simple concept. Manufacturers that have the greatest verifiable commitment to sustainability rank higher on the platform’s search engine when brands are searching for trading partners.

Any venture of this kind is open to accusations of “greenwash,” but CEO, Lejeune has a track record of promoting sustainability in the fashion industry.

Common Objective has been created out of The Ethical Fashion Forum, a not-for-profit organization set up by Lejeune in 2006 with the aim of promoting collaboration within the industry and promoting a move towards sustainability and ethical practices.

Using Tech To Scale Up

So why the change from not-for-profit organization to commercial, revenue generating company. What can a commercial venture do that a not for profit can’t?

“A few years ago we began to look at ways of scaling up,” says Lejeune. “And to do that we needed a tech solution.”

That, in turn, required a model that could attract investment and, to date, the company has raised £1.1 million in equity investment. The money has helped to create a platform that Lejeune describes as “fundamental tool companies that want to build sustainable businesses.”

Pinning Down Sustainability

In practice that has involved laying down a set of rules or criteria that serve to pin down what the term “sustainability” actually means. Lejeune acknowledges that there is a degree of confusion around this area. “There has always been a certain amount of misrepresentation. You find that businesses describe themselves as fair trade when they actually aren’t,” she says. So what Common Objective has set out to do is create a “universal language” for sustainability. Definitions apply to every company listed on or using the platform.

But will the idealism of the concept translate into revenues that will make the business commercially successful? It’s free to list on the platform, but with a "fremium" model in place, users have the option of paying for extra services, including promotion. The next step is a transactional facility. Once that is in place, the company is aiming for £17 million revenues in five years.

Changing Hearts and Minds

Launched in May last year, the platform has 14,000 industry users to date, with big brand names including Burberry, Kering, Westwood and McCartney. As Lejeune acknowledges, the name brands that use the platform have tended to be those that already have a strong interest in sustainability issues. “In the first year we’ve tended to focus on the leaders,” she says.

And to raise the profile of the platform and push sustainability higher up the agenda, Common Objective is this week launching its Leadership Alliance initiative, which calls on businesses working in the industry to sign up to a common set of values.

All of which is part of a longer-term plan to raise brand awareness while also promoting the concept of sustainability. Lejeune acknowledges that industry initiatives can’t in themselves deliver major changes to fashion industry practices, but she thinks that a marketplace such as Common Objective can provide a very necessary sourcing and collaboration tool while playing a part in changing hearts and minds.

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https://www.forbes.com/sites/trevorclawson/2019/06/30/cleaning-up-fashion-as-the-u-k-rejects-pollution-levy-a-startup-calls-for-industry-leadership/

2019-06-30 08:59:14Z
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Virgil Abloh: the red-hot renaissance man shaking up fashion - The Guardian

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Virgil Abloh: the red-hot renaissance man shaking up fashion The Guardian

Virgil Abloh is fashion's hottest designer. His latest creation is an orange brick. People queue round the block to buy one. Would you? Tim Lewis meets him in ...

https://www.theguardian.com/global/2019/jun/30/virgil-abloh-the-red-hot-renaissance-man-shaking-up-fashion

2019-06-30 07:00:00Z
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Sabtu, 29 Juni 2019

Puerto Rican fashion designer stakes out business in Spring Hill - Tampa Bay Times

SPRING HILL — Fashion designer Isaac Johan is dressing women in finery across two cultures as the native Puerto Rican attempts to establish his name in the continental U.S. from a small perch in Spring Hill.

The soft-spoken 25-year-old artist-cum-seamstress opened a spot early this year in Towne Square Mall. The enclave frequently serves as an incubator for small retail endeavors en route to greater fame, noted Richard Sanbenero, its marketing director. Sanbenero envisions such a route for Johan, “a very, very competent young man,” he said.

Johan specializes in wedding-party gowns, gala evening wear and pageant couture, imbued with the essence of his teacher and mentor, Carlota Alfaro, known by some as “Puerto Rico’s grande dame of fashion.” She accepted Johan for study at age 15 at Carla Alfaro College, a prestigious institute for fashion design in San Juan. He’s been designing and sewing commercially out of her studio for four years.

April’s prom season was Johan’s busiest here, so far. He winged back to Puerto Rico briefly, where he fashioned 19 gowns for its May prom season and for a clientele who already knows his work.

Flowing lines, swishy fabrics, beads, sequins or lace embellishments generally characterize Johan’s designs. Every page of his portfolio reveals a creative neckline, shoulder treatment, gauzy insert, crinolined hem or other creative inclusion.

“I didn’t know how (the business) worked here,” he said recently. “In Puerto Rico, they go crazy with fancy. Here, they’re more relaxed. They want only a little sparkle.”

Johan designs for each particular body, “to make (customers) look their best,” he explained. And he listens.

“Someone will say, ‘I don’t want to show my arms,’ or ‘I want to show my shoulders,’” he said. He encourages them to bring pictures and have ideas.

Johan and his clients sketch out a design on their first meeting, and he takes measurements. By the second get-together, Johan has produced the garment in crinoline for fitting on the customer. He stitches up in the gown in the chosen fabric — without closures — for a final fitting. Alterations made, the garment is readied for debut.

He can turn out a gown in a day.

“When I saw the first season at age 13 of Project Runway, I watched how they created a dress in one day. I was shocked. I wanted to do that,” Johan said.

Two clients from Ocala, who’d discovered his designs on social media, gave him the chance.

“I didn’t want them to drive so far many times,” he said. “‘Come, like, at 9 a.m.,’ I told them. Bring fabric. Bring shoes.”

Each Ocala dress was completed in a day.

Johan’s prom gowns start at about $250, custom gowns at $300.

Nancy Richey, of Spring Hill, sought Johan’s expertise for a mother-of-the-bride’s dress.

“He imported some lace from Puerto Rico,” Richey said. “(The sewing) took less than two weeks. It is everything I imagined it to be.”

She added, “Of the dresses I saw online, the kind he designed, he was cheaper.”

In Puerto Rico, Johan’s clients are devoted, returning to his studio for every special event. He is aiming for a client list here by fall, in time for holiday party dresses.

Mall spokesman Sanbenero said he “discovered” Johan when another mall tenant sponsored a wedding show this year that included his fashions. “That showed me how talented he was,” said Sanbenero, “beautiful, beautiful local talent.”

Contact the writer at graybethn@earthlink.net.

More information about fashion designer Isaac Johan is available on Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat. He can be contacted at (352) 428-5444. Towne Square Mall, 3021 Commercial Way, Spring Hill is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

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https://www.tampabay.com/hernando/puerto-rican-fashion-designer-stakes-out-business-in-spring-hill-20190629/

2019-06-29 15:58:00Z
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Dressed to kill: Video games' tricky relationship with fashion - BBC News

What do you look for in a great video game?

Fast-paced action? A strong storyline? Perhaps even an atmospheric soundtrack?

It's probably safe to say that decent fashion sense is unlikely to be top of your list. But when developers get it wrong players notice.

"It kind of creates a really jarring experience," said Victoria Tran, a community developer at Kitfox games, the Canadian indie studio behind titles including Boyfriend Dungeon and Lucifer Within Us.

"It's a piece of world building that's really overlooked," she told the BBC

Earlier this year, Ms Tran gave a talk called, Why Fashion in (Most) Games Sucks, at San Francisco's Game Developers Conference. She acknowledged that, at first glance, it might seem like a superficial concern. But she argued that getting it wrong could undermine a game's mood and feed into sexist stereotypes.

Getting it right, she said, could make a story feel richer and become a form of self-expression, especially when there are options to customise a protagonist's outfits. And for studio chiefs weighing up the costs involved, just consider how much titles like Overwatch and Fortnite have made from selling the "skins" that change their characters' looks.

'Unexciting'

In Ms Tran's opinion, one of the worst offenders is Resident Evil 3.

Jill Valentine is a cop in the 1999 survival-horror game. She wears a blue tube top, black skirt, white jacket tied around her waist and a pair of brown boots. Ms Tran let out a sigh when she looked at a picture - as zombie-killing outfits go it seems more than a bit impractical, and is a far cry from some of the combat-ready suits the character wears in the title's sequels.

"One of the things outfits can really do is create an interesting silhouette so that you know they're a main character. There's nothing exciting about [Jill's] outfit other than..." she paused briefly.

"Actually, there's nothing exciting about it at all."

Captain Bulky

Complaints aren't restricted to the clothing given to female virtual cast members. At the recent E3 games expo, one of the big "unveils" was a first look at the video game Marvel's Avengers.

But when the trailer debuted, many fans were critical about how the superheroes looked. It wasn't just that their faces barely resembled the actors in the movie-based adaptations. There was also something off about their iconic clothing.

Captain America's costume looked "overly bulky", wrote news site IGN's Joshua Yehl, and Thor appeared to have a "sound system mounted on his chest". In response to the criticism, the game's developer Crystal Dynamics said: "We are always listening to, and welcome feedback from our community [but] there are currently no plans to change our character designs."

No nail polish

Of course, fashion goes beyond the clothes a character wears.

"I just want a ponytail with a fringe so that I can create a character that kind of looks like me," Ellen Rose from YouTube's OutsideXtra told the BBC. "It's often so difficult, like you have five pre-set hairstyles for women and it's usually so vast in real life. And it's the same with guys' hair as well."

It's not the first time such an observation has been made. In 2016, user Quinn_flower posted on a Grand Theft Auto (GTA) forum asking: "Why can't I wear boots with jeans? Why no long hair or nail polish?"

"Seriously the female clothing need to be overhauled ASAP," it concluded.

Even though the comment was posted more than three years ago, the comment thread is still very active.

Last month, another player - nicknamed Coleco - added: "Limiting player options for colour choices and styles is just boring and means I'm not spending my in-game cash on accessories. I've been sitting on millions of unused GTA money I can't do anything with for actual years because I want to look like something other than GI Jane."

More options mean more investment, and developers might not always believe the extra effort is worth it. There is a bit of development time required to make those changes," noted Matt Diener, an analyst at NPD Games.

"Things like GTA Online are perhaps the most difficult - you're dealing with a large range of equipment and outfits, and additions need to be applied to different character models."

But the benefits of adding cocktail dresses or platform sandals can pay off.

"We want to feel we are like these characters," claims Ms Tran. "You want to feel like you're at your most powerful."

Rockstar Games - the maker of the GTA series - declined to comment.

Gender balance

Some gamers believe part of the problem is a lack of diversity within the games studios themselves.

"It's not because they don't want to [provide options] - it's just because they might not think of that," Ms Rose suggested. "[But] as the games industry gets more diverse, you do see way more options opening up."

The 2019 State of the Gaming Industry survey indicated women now make up 19% of the field - an increase of 2% on the previous year.

The studios that are really innovating and creating the most progressive, accurate depictions of female characters, or really any any group of characters based on cultures, genders, sexual representation, sexual orientations etc are really starting to recognise the value of authenticity," Mr Diener said.

"They're getting members of those groups involved in the creative process and they're able to strive for and achieve authenticity by this."

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https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-48794418

2019-06-29 00:15:26Z
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Jumat, 28 Juni 2019

Meet Sylvie Millstein, A Female Founder In Fashion - Forbes

Sylvie Millstein is the founder of the fashion brand, Hellessy, which she self-funded at the age forty after a successful career at Chanel.

Hellessy

Melding American sportswear and French flair, Sylvie Millstein's journey to founding the fashion brand Hellessy is anything but expected.

She launched Hellessy when she was forty years old, after a successful career at Chanel and while juggling a family with four children. Becoming a designer wasn't always the plan for Millstein, but working in fashion was—she made it her goal to work at Chanel after reading her first Vogue magazine at age thirteen.

"I became obsessed with fashion, but more precisely with the new Chanel designed by Karl Lagerfeld. I never thought I could be talented enough as a designer to join the creative team, but getting a Master [degree] from one of the top French Business Schools—known as the Grandes Écoles de Commerce in France—represents a golden ticket to enter any luxury group," the designer says. "So I made it my academic goal, graduated from HEC, and landed a marketing position in the LVMH group."

Soon after, Millstein moved to Japan where she took a position with the luxury house, Givenchy, and it was in the East Asian nation where her Chanel goals manifested. She was offered a job as a buyer with her dream company, eventually moving into a key role as the GMM for Chanel, Japan. For the company at the time, and given the size of the market, this was a career highlight.

She eventually left Chanel to relocate to New York to start a family, where Millstein found herself disillusioned with the state of the job market in fashion. "I could not find any position in the corporate fashion world that would be as exciting as what I already accomplished," she says. That was when the idea to launch Hellessy came to be. It felt like the next logical step in her career.

Hellessy's founder, Syvlie Millstein, says her brand is "seductive sportswear with an architectural point of view."

Hellessy

As it is for many designers who launch brands, they see a gap in the market and aim to fill that void. It was hardly different for Millstein, who was looking for interesting clothes that would suit her cosmopolitan, fast-paced-meets-family lifestyle. She applied her decade-long experience in luxury fashion, the rich understanding of fabrications and fit that came along with that experience, and her keen eye for style to create a brand that melds together high design and quality with an ultra modern sense of practicality.

"I started from scratch and learned at age forty the basics of sketching, sourcing and garment making," Millstein recalls. "Building a brand and making clothes without notable partners or major connections sounded impossible at the beginning. But I found that my merchant background allowed me to build collections and develop products that made sense and resonate with customers from the beginning, which, in the end, should be the ultimate goal for a designer willing to build a business."

Hellessy is a self-funded venture with only Millstein at the helm. It's not to say she hasn't considered having a business partner, but she hasn't met someone as yet with whom she's prepared to share equity.

"I think having a partner who can bring the right skill set and connections would be a tremendous asset for my company at this stage of development," Millstein says. "We are not actively looking, and it is all about finding the right partner in the end, so it might not be in the cards for Hellessy, eventually."

Hellessy is made in New York from premium fabrics sourced from Italy.
Hellessy

In the meantime, she's comfortable leading the charge on her own. She acts as Hellessy's Creative Director, sourcing, developing, and designing the collections. She also applies her experience in management and running fashion businesses to the growth and operations of her company.

In the designer's words, Hellessy is "seductive sportswear with an architectural point of view." It's a collection that is made in New York with premium fabrics sourced from Italy. Staying true to these brand values and to also stay competitive and keep margins has been a challenge for the designer. For all the roadblocks these ideals may present, they also inspire Millstein to push the boundaries of her designs and rethink the way she communicates her brand in a market rife with retail instability and over saturation.

"I do see many peer designers relocating their manufacturing abroad. Today new contemporary brands are gaining a lot of traction and push into the designer space, offering a lot of look at a lower price," she says. When she observes this happening in the market, her "merchant instincts" kick in and she adjusts her creative process.

"I see every collection as a new battle and a new beginning, a challenge to get our customers attention but also as an opportunity to grow further," she says. "Nobody needs another dress or pants in their wardrobe unless it is absolutely unique and serves a clear purpose."

With all the challenges, ups and downs of running a successful startup fashion business, it's easy to forget Millstein is a mother of four. "Whilst I cannot say I have found the perfect balance between family and work, somehow within the chaos and the frustration of not having enough time in the day for both, I make it work," she says when asked about the career-family juggle.

Nobody needs another dress or pants in their wardrobe unless it is absolutely unique and serves a clear purpose, says Millstein.

Hellessy

She's taken certain measures to ensure maximum quality time is spent with her family, such as locating her office across the street from her home. She's a firm believer that being a better mother means being a fulfilled woman first, and she feels blessed to have a career that gives her that fulfillment.

"To be perfectly honest, I don't have much time for myself besides the basic maintenance and socializing, but I get so much joy from my four children and my company—which is a bit like raising a fifth child—it is hard to let go and take time to relax on my own," says the designer. "So far, I do not feel close to a burnout."

Launched in 2012, with six retailers under Hellessy's belt almost immediately, she knew she was in business right out of the gate. "But the takeoff is not what I find important in this journey, it is the evolution and the growth of the brand," she clarifies. It's the slow and steady growth of Hellessy that has mattered the most to her, and it was only two years ago, she feels, that her company's growth path saw real acceleration. "Each season bringing in new exciting milestones for the brand, from Rihanna wearing a piece to getting into new key accounts, or expanding internationally to Asia and the Middle East," she adds.

So far, the puzzle of family and business is one that Millstein has seemed to figure out, at least for herself. Although it's evident it's her strong sense of identity and faith in her skills and experience that keeps her business and life growing.

"You have to really know yourself and know your limits and needs," the designer concludes. "And I am certainly built for this kind of hectic lifestyle."

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https://www.forbes.com/sites/rebeccasuhrawardi/2019/06/28/meet-sylvie-millstein-a-female-founder-in-fashion/

2019-06-28 13:00:06Z
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Super Fashion Meets Super Nature In Florence - Forbes

When it comes to ideals of physical beauty, no place has impacted art history more than Florence. This city is home to both Michelangelo’s David statue and Botticelli’s iconic painting The Birth of Venus. What had originated here, continues to resonate everywhere else. While Milan takes its semiannual spotlight on the fashion weeks circuit, Florence shines throughout the year thanks to the Pitti Immagine series of influential tradeshows and one industry’s top fashion schools. Since 1986, Polimoda has been attracting global talent to the riverbanks of Arno. Its graduate showcase gathers brand headhunters, style scouts and influencers for a glimpse of what the future of fashion could look like. This year, the audience needed reassurance that there would be a fashion future, after all.

Claudia Novara showcases her collection at Polimoda Graduation Fashion Show in Florence.